Thursday, March 22, 2012

The Cascade Hamlet
By Douglas H. Shepard
Fredonia’s Cascade Hamlet was a craft center, a shopping mart, a community within a community, and a magnificent dream. To fully understand how bold its originator, Major Joseph Skinner, was we must visualize what Fredonia was like in 1818 when he first looked at the land on which he would build his dream. At the time, unincorporated Fredonia was understood to consist of a small strip on either side of the Main Road all within Lot 14, the 360 acres purchased by Hezekiah Barker and two of his sons: from the crossing at today’s Chestnut and Seymour streets to the intersection with today’s Newton Street.
If we could transport ourselves back to that time and that place, our first impression would be of a forest of trees and the next, of relative emptiness. The Pomfret Assessment Roll tells us that in 1818 there were exactly 35 individuals or businesses with taxable property in Fredonia. Most homes and businesses were on the Main Road between (Zattu) Cushing’s Road (Eagle Street) and the bridge, and a few short lanes leading off from Main.
All were dirt roads, of course, and all buildings of wood: log cabins, plank sided, and heavy framed structures. Nothing of brick, nothing of stone. Nothing above two stories. A one-room school house stood on Barker Common and another on West Hill. There were no church buildings, no Town or Village buildings, no Post Office building. The small wooden shops and homes spaced out along Main Street led to the main focus of the Village, the two mills by the bridge, the sawmill on the southeast side of Main Street, the grist mill to the northwest.
The bridge itself, a simple wooden structure, stood close to the surface of the creek. The Main Road on either side of Canadaway Creek lay some twenty feet below where it is today making the rise up West Hill that much steeper. If you stood in the middle of that wooden bridge looking upstream, you would see the wooden dam some thirty feet away holding the mill pond that powered the two mills on your left. Just to the right of the dam, between the creek and a steep, narrow trail, was the lot on which Skinner would build.
In 1818 the “Old Major,” as Levi Risley says he was called, began virtually on his own. He began with an odd gesture, removing his collar pin “and he said it should not be replaced until the frame was raised.” Apparently taking off his detachable collar symbolized that he was now at work and would not stop until it was time for a formal dedication of his building.
The first step was to go to the woodlots of individual farmers and select “a whitewood tree that would square sixty feet”  and then give the landholder the honor of hauling it to the building site. The foundation must have been begun at least by February 1819 since a survey recorded on 1 March of a road that no longer exists, running from just west of the bridge to Chestnut Street, refers to “the large Building now erecting on the western side of the Creek,” and a deed of 23 April refers to “that part of the said Dam which is now covered by the foundation of a large building erecting by Joseph Skinner.”
Skinner designed the structure with a basement and two floors above it. One corner of the building rested on the end of the dam. Levi Risley in 1880, and again in 1884, wrote about it, explaining that a bulkhead was constructed to direct water from the mill pond into the Cascade Hamlet “to propel machinery in the northern rooms [i.e. the shops and work rooms nearer the creek], as no one of that day thought of using steam for that purpose.” (Because the building paralleled Main Street which runs Northeast/Southwest, the “north” end of the structure is sometimes called “east” or “northeast.”) There must have been a wheel of some kind in the basement to be turned by the water running down from the height of the mill pond, and a power takeoff — leather belts and wooden shafts — to transfer the power to the front rooms on the first and second floors. A small stream, later called Wiley’s Creek or Scott’s Creek, ran under the building and into the mill pond. It was probably used as a tailrace to return the water to the pond. The creek is still there, in conduits underground.
Once the building’s foundations and the wheel were in place, the upper structure could be raised over it. The framed units, mortised and tenoned together, would be laid out on the ground, then, with enough volunteer help as possible, raised, propped up and then fastened in place with wooden pegs. That was done in the Summer of 1819 with young Levi Risley present. (He wrote about it as in 1820, probably confusing the date when the framing went up with some later ceremony when the building was completely finished.) As the last pin in the frame was being driven in, four men crossed the road from Martin Damon’s shop with a stone on which Damon had chiseled “Cascade Hamlet.” (Darwin Barker remembered it as having a picture of the building as well.) It was solemnly placed “at the southwest corner of the building.” The next ceremonial step was replacing the stud in Major Skinner’s shirt collar, after which everyone “took a swig of milk punch.” (This  was a mixture of milk and whiskey, perhaps with a sweetener added.) After the heady toasts, the assembled men and boys (Levi Risley was just 15) dove into the mill pond no doubt accompanied by much tipsy hilarity.
Once the ceremonies and festivities were done, work continued on enclosing the building and completing the individual rooms. Risley said “as fast as the rooms could be fnished they were occupied.”
When the building was completed, it contained, according to Spafford’s Gazetteer of 1824, 180 rooms, although many were set aside for apartments. At the front, the building was 150 feet long from the mill dam to “a narrow alley where now is Hamlet Street.” Behind the front section where the shops and stores were located, two wings ran back to form a huge, U-shaped structure. The inner yard between the two arms was almost 1/4 acre. It was on the two floors of the two arms that the living quarters were found. Risley said they were “fronting on this open square,” which suggests a common inner hall or outer verandah leading back from the shops onto which the front doors of the apartments would open. Although no mention of it is made, it is assumed that the wings were of two stories also, particularly because of that report (perhaps exaggerated) that there were 180 rooms in all. 
What Skinner had had in mind all along was a kind of one-stop shopping center where craftsmen and business men could live and work, providing a great convenience for local farmers to be able to do all of their shopping and repair work in one place, since it was not only on the Main Road, but on the narrow alley he worked to have improved.
That alley, Hamlet Street, “was projected by Maj. Jos. Skinner for the convenience of the citizens of Bull’s Mills [Laona], to get to the mechanics [craftsmen] of the great center, the Hamlet, but the hill at that time was so abrupt that goats could hardly climb it.”
Because of the natural falls at Laona, it and its stream were referred to in early Holland Land Company records as the “Cascade.” For example, on 28 September 1804, Thomas McClintock wrote a letter from “Caskade Creek” to Joseph Ellicott in Batavia asking for a contract for “the Cascade Mills place” which Zattu Cushing had already taken. That is why, when Skinner planned his communal center, he called it the “Cascade Hamlet,” the community by the stream. 
Despite all Skinner’s work and planning, Risley said “but few of the rooms . . . were ever occupied.” However, from contemporary advertisements and later recollections we can recreate a good bit of who was in the building and where they worked.
The first occupant was William A. Hart, who advertised his gunsmith business on 24 December 1819. He was at the east [north] end on the second floor along with his young apprentice, Levi Risley, who remained for some two to three years. Risley “went out of business” in 1823 “about the time that old flint gun lock did,”and went to work in the G. W. French Company store in Sinclairville as a “boy clerk” when he was 18.
The next advertisement (there are only random numbers of the Chautauque Gazette and The New-York Censor extant for the 1819-1823 period) is in December 1821 announcing that William Norcott and James M. Willcox had begun a blacksmith business in the Cascade Hamlet making axes, hoes, scythes, augers, shaves, mill irons, etc. They were on the first floor, at the east end, under Hart’s gunsmith shop. A later ad called it “No.3.” Willcox left the business soon after they opened. In January 1823 E. Shepard (or Shepherd) and Reuben Buck began a carriage making business on the first floor just west of Norcott and Willcox. Their ad gave their address as “Nos.5, 9 and 10.” (Shepard withdrew from the partnership in June.)
Although there are no early advertisements for some others, we know they were at the Cascade Hamlet because in March 1823 nine occupants, plus their founder, joined together as the Cascade Hamlet Mechanic Society with a lengthy and solemn Constitution and By-Laws. They were published in the Censor of 18 March 1823 “(By Request).” For some reason the only internal date is that of 15 March 1823 when a meeting of the Hamlet Society was “held at No.9.” It is assumed that the Constitution was ratified first, at that same meeting. The Constitution was signed by its founding members:

Joseph Skinner, Projector and Architect.
William Hart, Gunsmith.
M. Damon, Sculptor & Painter.
Wm. Norcott, Blacksmith.
U. Wentworth, Cooper.
E. Shepherd, Wagon Maker.
Reuben Buck, Carriage Maker.
N. Randall, Tanner & Shoemaker.
S. Willson, Tin & Coppersmith.
Sala Todd, Wheel Maker.

The lack of alphabetizing suggests that the names are in the order of their arrival at the Cascade Hamlet. It should also be noted in passing that, despite the celebratory hi-jinks in 1819 reported by Levi Risley, By-law 8 stipulated “that no Hamletteer [as they called themselves] shall on any pretence whatever, suffer the use of ardent spirits in or about the Hamlet.” A paragraph appended to the By-laws read: Every Hamletteer shall use his influence to expell inebriety, ignorance and idleness among journeymen and apprentices — these being the parents of poverty — and that every member shall use his best exertions against them, by inculcating morality, sobriety and industry. In proportion as these principles prevail, poverty will disappear.”
Other By-laws dealt with housekeeping matters, that each shop was to be kept clean and uncluttered, “the ground for storage” was to be “divided so as best to convene the several kinds of business, and no one shall encroach on another’s ground….All necessary precaution shall be taken through the day against fire; and all fires shall be entirely extinguished throughout the Hamlet on closing shops for the night, except such as have some persons to sleep in them through the night. Most interesting is By-law No.6 that “all the principal wares made in the Hamlet shall be stamped with the name of the establishment, the maker’s name, and the number of the room. Each room shall have a sign, mentioning the kind of work done therein.”
In addition to Skinner, “Projector and Architect,” five of the signators for whom we do not have early ads must have had shop room at the Hamlet at least by March 1823 when they signed the Constitution. Martin Damon, who had made the stone sign for the building was in a middle room on the second floor carving tombstones and doing sign painting. Dr. Uriah Wentworth made barrels at his cooper’s shop just west of Damon. Sylvester Willson had his tin and coppersmith shop on the first floor just west of Buck and Shepherd; Nelson Randall made shoes and other leather goods just west of them; and Sala Todd made carriage wheels at an unnamed location, perhaps in connection with the carriage manufactory.
There are others who show up in advertisements in later years. J. L. Beardsley had his tailor shop at the Hamlet at some point, although all we have is a notice of 27 March 1827 that he was moving out. Myron Chapin opened a machine shop in May 1828 at the “north end” which means he took over from Norcott. He made wool carding and spinning machines among other devices. A week after Chapin, Hughes & Clough opened a meat market there. It may have been a sign of trouble to come that they moved out in September. At the same time that Chapin moved in, so did P. Coffman, chairmaker, into the “south room” at the Hamlet Street end of the first floor. In November he expanded into the “east room” which must mean the room just behind him in the wing of the building running along Hamlet Street.
E. Otis & Co. announced in an ad dated 28 April 1829 that they were at the Cascade Hamlet “building Douglass’ Improved Patent threshing machines.” Their ad continued only through 8 July 1829. It would seem, then, that Myron Chapin was the last Hamletteer holdout. His ad continued in the Censor through 9 September 1830. He must have moved on since his name also disappears from the assessment rolls as well.
Ultimately, the building was simply abandoned and allowed to decay. No doubt the foundations, artifacts, even the water wheel may be there yet, awaiting an archeologist’s dig.
In a letter of 3 April 1871, Darwin R. Barker described what he remembered. He was prompted to write by a comment by E. F. Warren at the Censor Semi-Centennial banquet. (Barker apparently made a mistake in referring to a letter by E. F. Douglass, who does not seem to have written, meaning the talk by E. F. Warren at the banquet.) Warren said, “How many are there in this audience who know where or what the Cascade Hamlet was? For the information of those who never heard of it, I will say it was a long building, extending from about the west end of the bridge at the foot of Main street, to near the bank at the intersection of Hamlet street, filled with machinery, propelled by the waters of the Canadaway. How many stories high it was I cannot tell, but to me it was a most imposing structure and one of the wonders of the world.”
D. R. Barker’s addition was that he could remember so many hours spent in the “old Hamlet.” “In its last years, those crazy old platforms stood on ‘their last legs’ and often nothing. . . . If two stories and a basement extending from Hamlet street to the bridge, could tell the pranks of 20 boys, and bats innumerable, your readers would have fun for a month. The old Hamlet was headquarters. Deviltry in general was concocted there. . . .”
The last memory belongs, again, to Levi Risley. He returned to Fredonia after an absence of ten years (1833 when he and his brothers were starting the Risley Seed Company) and “found the old Hamlet deserted and going to ruins, and ten years more (1843) but little was left to tell that a building had ever stood on the ground.”
Joseph Skinner’s magnificent dream was no more.
The Woman’s Christian Association
By Douglas H. Shepard

The Historical Background     
The turmoil and disruption of the Civil War permitted women to have a greater involvement in social work of various kinds. The first Woman’s Christian Association was formed in Boston in 1866. Gradually others were organized throughout the country. (There were some 50 such groups by 1894.) They all came under the general leadership of  the “International Board of Women’s Christian Associations.” [The name is usually “Woman’s” but sometimes given as “Women’s,” perhaps a typographical error by the newspaper or magazine.]     
The groups each seemed to take on a particular social “cause.” the Boston group focused on encouraging neighborhood libraries to be established. The Jamestown W.C.A., organized in September 1884 and chartered in June 1885, worked at improving hospitals and hospital care.     
The Fredonia W.C.A., incorporated in May 1892, dedicated itself to “general charitable work and to establish and maintain at Fredonia, N.Y., a home for aged and indigent women.” The official name according to their charter is “The Womans Christian Association.”

The Fredonia W.C.A.Home     
The building itself was put up as a private home for Aaron O. Putnam. Designed by E. A. Curtis, it was begun in June 1878 and the Putnams moved in in April 1879. In 1893 the W.C.A. of Fredonia bought the property and had their formal opening in November 1893.

Records      
The local W.C.A. began issuing annual reports in the Fredonia Censor beginning in February 1894. However, they gave only aggregate numbers without names. There are city directories for 1894, 1896-97, and 1898-99, but they do not list the names of residents, just the home itself at what was then called 99 Temple Street. The modern house numbering system came into effect in Fredonia in 1899 and the directory for that year does list eleven names of residents. (The listings use the terms “inmate” and “boarder” which seem to be different categories.) The February 1899 report, referring to 1898, states that there were 14 residents of whom “two had died replaced by four.”      
Other resources are the various censuses. The Federal Census for 1900 lists 12 boarders by name. Thereafter the New York State and Federal Censuses give names for 1905, 1910, 1915, 1920, 1925 and 1930. These can be compared with entries in the city directories, which appeared roughly every other year.
The Origins of the Fredonia Academy
Douglas H. Shepard
Darwin R. Barker Historical Museum
(Revised)
2006

                            Although Fredonia’s Academy is frequently mentioned in local histories and reminiscences, often with great pride, a clear account of its beginnings and of the building that housed it is still lacking. Authorities agree, for example, that rivalry between those living on one or the other side of Canadaway Creek played a part in the Academy’s history.1 However, exactly how that division worked itself out has never been made completely clear.
The background against which to see the drama unfolding has to do with the early settlement patterns in our area. When the first permanent settlers came to Fredonia, beginning in 1805, they took up land on either side of Canadaway Creek. Hezekiah Barker’s efforts to have the community’s center develop on his land, Lot 14, are well established. Lot 14, in the Holland Land Company's survey, runs from Johnson St. on the west to Newton St., and from just below Maple Ave. down to Hamlet St.
                            To make his land the center of the community, Barker did several things. He had Jonathan Bartoo come from Sangerfield to locate a site and build a dam for the grist and saw mills which were put up at the foot of Main St.2 He donated land for a burying ground, opened the Common for everyone’s use, had the Main road rerouted to run through his property and past his mills, built a new log cabin/inn on that road, and began renting and selling off house and store lots along and near Main St.
                            On West Hill the same kind of development was going on. Barker’s partner in the mills put up an inn at Chestnut and West Main. Homes, a school building, stores and businesses began to develop on and near West Main St., and a large plot of land was cleared in expectation that the county seat might be located there.3 Besides land use, another significant element in the story of the Academy has to do with local church activities.
                            The early settlers very soon began to come together for religious services, at first informally. As early as 1805, under Zattu Cushing’s leadership, a number of Baptists began meeting wherever they could find room. On 14 March 1807 they entered into a formal covenant, and, finally, late in 1808, they were officially formed into a church, “The First Baptist Society of Pomfret.”4 They met in Zattu Cushing’s barn, at the earliest school house (a one-room cabin on the Common), and various other places until their first meeting house was put up in 1823.5
                            The same pattern was followed by other groups. On 29 September 1810, twelve settlers met at the home of Asa French on West Hill and entered into “a Christian Covenant,” incorporating as the “Pomfret Religious Society” in 1811.6 On January 3, 1817, they changed their form of church polity from Congregational to Presbyterian.7 The following year, meeting at the house of Alfred Collins, they became the Pomfret Religious Society and formally recorded their incorporation at the courthouse in Mayville. In December 1819 they reincorporated as the First Presbyterian Society of Pomfret.8
                            This group met at a school house on Chestnut St. and Berry Rd., the inn at Chestnut and West Main, private residences, a basement of a home on East Main, at Barker’s schoolhouse, and at a cabinet shop on West Main St.9 With the formal incorporation of December 1819 there followed a move to put up a permanent meeting house. On 15 January 1820 it was “Voted that this society build a meeting house 52 x 56 feet.” After further discussion it was voted on February 8th “that the site for the meeting house be located on the hill, nearly opposite the house of Jas. Mullett Jr., unless the proprietors should hereafter remove it to the spot opposite Henry Abell 's”10 The locations being suggested were on the north side of West Main St. just east and just west of the Chestnut/Seymour intersection.11 With the question of where the village itself would have its center still in doubt, this move by the Presbyterians was met with opposition.
                            By 1810 Hezekiah Barker was playing less of a role in the community. In 1814 he sold his home/inn to Thomas Abell. His death soon after left the property to his sons, M.W.and T.G.Abell who put up a larger structure in its place, where 1 Park Place now stands. It is said that it was the Abells who were the main force behind the next step.12 A number of community leaders had determined that an Academy ought to be opened in the village. For that it would be necessary to get support and donations towards putting up a building. The device they settled on was to circulate a subscription list for putting up a combined Academy and meeting house. This was not a new concept. In 1808, the residents of Sheridan had petitioned the Holland Land Company to donate five acres of land on which the community would then erect a combined school and meeting house.13
                            It is particularly interesting to realize that the Fredonia petition in its preamble, which reads “We the subscribers, having it in contemplation to build a house, which shall answer the purposes of an academy and a               meeting house....” left a space Just preceding “meeting house.” A later hand has inserted “Presbyterian.”14 This strongly suggests either that the promoters were not sure whether the Presbyterians would be supportive, or that without formal action they could not properly specify which denomination was intended to share the building.
Of course, it cannot be coincidence that the first two signers were two of the nine Trustees of the Presbyterian Society of 1819. Indeed, a large number of those signing can be found in the list of Presbyterian members. Again, it must be more than mere coincidence that the three most prominent non-signers, Benjamin Douglass, Henry Abell and Jacob Houghton, had significant land holdings on West Hill and were leaders in the attempt to establish the west side as the center of the community.
                            There are other aspects to the 1821 petition that deserve some comment. In the first place, “petition” is not quite the right term for the document. It is not a plea to another body requesting some action, but rather a contract by which the subscribers pledge to two designees, Leverett Barker and Thomas G. Abell, who are to act for the group, certain donations in money or kind towards building an academy/meeting house.
The contract is quite detailed, which strongly suggests that a great deal of informal, preparatory discussion had preceded it.15 We can imagine, for example, community leaders like
Leverett Barker and T.G.Abell buttonholing friends, colleagues and influential neighbors to find out just how much support there might be for having an Academy in the first place. Then there would need to be an understanding that if the effort were begun, enough of the Presbyterians would support the combined-building idea. The size of the structure had to be settled and at least a private commitment made as to the land the building would occupy.
                            The exact language of the document refers to an academy/meeting house “which shall stand on or within twenty rods of the place where the School house...now stands.” The school house referred to was the second one on the east side of Canadaway Creek, standing about in the middle of today's Church St. just opposite the Village parking lot next to the Village Hall.16 The land on which it stood belonged to Hezekiah Barker. A circle with a twenty rod (330 feet or 5 chains) radius and the school house as its center would reach to Lambert St. on the north, Park St. on the west and half way to White St. on the east, unbuilt-on land that was still owned by Hezekiah Barker. In other words, there had probably been a tacit agreement reached already that, if the subscription effort was a success, Barker would give the land for the Academy. This assumption is further confirmed by the fact that his name does not appear as a. subscriber, and he did, for one dollar, the following October, promise a parcel abutting on the schoolhouse lot, obviously his donation to the subscription effort.17
It may be recalled that the original decision by the Presbyterians had been to build a meeting house that would be 52 x 56 feet. The Academy document stipulates that “the size, plan and form of the said house [is] to be ascertained and fixed by a majority of the subscribers to this paper...provided however that the said house shall not be less than thirty six feet by fifty feet.” This may have been a compromise to keep costs to a minimum without having too small a room for the other group whose support was being solicited.
There was a kind of timetable included in the text. It was stipulated that the subscribers agreed to give money, property, labor and materials for building. Building materials were “to be delivered on the place where the said house is to stand, by the first day of September next [1821].”
The material pledged included whitewood floor boards; nails and glass; shingles; six thousand clapboard; three thousand feet of floor plank; three thousand feet of lumber; one thousand feet of lumber; two thousand feet of hemlock lumber; ten dollars of lumber; two thousand feet of lumber; and sashes.
                            Since the signed covenant, reserving the land to the Academy corporation, was not executed until 3 October 1821, we may imagine that the delivery of material may have been begun but certainly no building started then. In fact the document says that Barker agreed to convey the land to them "as soon as they shall demand the same" suggesting the actual transfer was some time in the future. There does exist a record of costs incurred by the Trustees beginning with the entry "Oct.1821. To 1 Yok of oxen to Mr.Temple — $50.00."18   Therefore, something was hauled to the building site in October, although the entry does not specify what. In all likelihood it was the main timbers, massive by all accounts, that had been hewn from the giant trees in the nearby forest. One later account claims that Col.Thomas G.Abell "with his own hands hewed some of the main timbers,"19 and when the building was being dismantled years later, the newspaper editor commented on its "very heavy timbers."20 Fifty dollars was a very large sum of money in 1821, so the single yoke of oxen must have done a great deal of work to warrant that payment.21 We may also imagine that the timbers would not have been used green but permitted to season, so the actual building probably did not begin until early in 1822 with the laying of a stone foundation reaching some two to three feet above ground level.22  There is only one specific reference to when the work began. In connection with an old-timers celebration, C.F.Matteson described the first time he saw Fredonia. It was on 9 July 1822 and he well remembered the exciting day because he saw the "men of the village that day assembled raising the frame of the old Academy."23  Another report, this one second hand, says that "twenty picked men were chosen to raise the building, and. . . to prevent the intrusion of any who might wish to volunteer their services, those who were the select ones bore upon their shoulders peculiar badges as the marks of their office."24
                            The record of costs referred to before has, as its second entry, “1822              To 357 feet Pine boards $3.57,” indicating additional lumber was being purchased besides the thousands of board feet pledged in 1821. The exterior was up and the building closed in sufficiently for interior work to begin in 1823 as is seen from the subsequent entries dated June 1823: 4 bushels [horse] hair for plastering, paper [of] lampblack [for tinting], Spanish white, white lead, 8 boxes glass, to Mr.Porter for painting, to Conneroe for Mason work. It would seem, then, that the building was up and roofed by June 1823. (The deed of June1823 by which the Baptists bought their parcel across Temple St. refers to the Academy as already up across the way.)25 And that work on the interior was about to or had already begun. In fact, the Presbyterian church records of 2 June1823 show that there was a vote “that George Hinckley circulate a subscription paper for finishing the room in the Academy for meeting.”26 In other words, by June 1823 there was a room on the second floor to be finished, and, on 11 October 1823, the “session met agreeable to appointment at the Meeting House,” our first recorded use of any part of the Academy building.27
                            The Presbyterians, of course, were meeting in the upstairs room of the new building. How many other rooms were there and just how big was the building itself? The lot on which the Academy stood was originally intended to be at least 46 feet on the Temple St. side and 50 feet on today's Church St., but when Hezekiah Barker executed a formal deed in April 1825, the frontage on the Common, or schoolhouse lot, was 99 feet, and on Temple St. just over 141 feet.28 One later account says the building was about 35 x 50 feet, another that it was just half of the size it became in the 1850 renovation by John Jones.29 That means, then, that it sat on the lot with a 50 foot wide gable end facing the Common but extending back only 35 feet.
                            One of those accounts says “the campus was some 40 feet deeper before the Academy was enlarged.”30 That would have put the building’s front some 90 feet back from the line of Church St. That matches exactly with the measurements that can be made using the information in the Barker deed of 1825. At the time the Academy was erected, of course, there was no Church St. In its place was the schoolhouse lot and, beyond that, the Common.
                            The front face of the Academy had a projecting tower, 10 x 24 feet on the inside, with a “bright-tinned dome, with lightning rod and weather vane.”31 In 1828 a bell was hung in the

tower and rung on Sundays to signal church services and on weekdays to call the students to class.             
                            There were two entrances, at front and rear. The front entrance was into the base of the tower. The ground floor of the tower made a kind of entry hall and had two doors leading to each of the larger front rooms. There was a partition wall running across the ground floor forming the back wall of the two front rooms. Behind them were two smaller rooms. From the tower entrance hall as well two winding staircases lead to a matching second-floor entry hall. From there one door led into the large, undivided, upper room which was the Presbyterian church. The center of the floor was filled with pews running across the building, with a row, elevated two steps higher than the floor level, running around three sides of the room. There was a high window in the north wall and, under it, “the lofty pulpit with its green moreen cushion.”33
                            The building seems, from some early illustrations, to be set on a foundation about two steps above ground level. The ceilings were each ten feet high with an attic above giving a height of roughly thirty feet at the peak, not including the tower/belfry. Later photographs and paintings show two rows of eight windows each (one in the ground floor was converted to a side entrance probably when the 1850 addition was built) and we may assume there were matching rows of windows on the other side, not depicted.34 The original building probably had four windows on each level and each side of the building. At a time before gas light or kerosene, and with candles an expensive luxury, the size and placement of windows was an important consideration for functions like classrooms, print shops, jewelers, etc. We know there was at least one window, a high one, in the second story behind the pulpit. There would not have been one, or just one, at the back of the first floor because it had been designed with a central partition running the length of the building, dividing it in half, and probably serving as a bearing wall for the upper floor as well. There would have to have been windows to light the entry hall/tower and the two sets of stairs. Perhaps they were in the front face of the tower flanking the entrance door. A document of 1825 leasing the right front room, refers to the tenants keeping in repair “their part of the porch leading to the room and the outside [walls] of the Academy.”35 The reference is to the tower/hall entry way itself.
A notation on the back of an 1825 subscription reads “Paid Lathrop Drake $150.00 for finishing the academy room and $7.50 for finishing the Porch. Paid.for Painting room $20.00. (The subscribed pledges came to $158.00.) The room may refer to the school room, the lower right front room, which was leased in April 1825.
As we have seen, the building was to have clapboards for its siding and a shingled roof. There was the projecting tower topped “by its bright-tinned dome,” (another account refers to it as “a central dome spire”) with lightning rod and weather.vane.
The only paints mentioned in the early list of payments are Spanish white ($5.60), and various quantities of white lead costing in all $31.62, and the lampblack, so we may assume the building was painted white or an off-white.
                            If we could be transported back to June 1823, what would we see? What was the setting in which we would find our brand new clapboard Academy? In front of the Academy across the Common we would find broad Main Street running roughly from the northeast to the southwest. It is unpaved; rutted and dusty in the dry weather, muddy in the wet and always redolent from the large amount of horse traffic. It is without sidewalks of any kind. There is, as yet, no street lighting. Along the south side of West Main Street opposite the Common there are some wooden buildings housing the shops and homes of the store-keepers.36 One small building, put up around 1816, houses the Fredonia Censor, then the home of Thomas Warren, set back a bit from the buildings on either side, then the drug store of Todd & Crosby, and two buildings — one at the corner of Water St. — joined to make up the Union Hotel. On the east side of Water St. — which is a dirt track leading only to the edge of Canadaway Creek but not beyond it — where the M&T Bank is now but set back from both streets is the Eliakim Crosby house, next a three-story Masonic Hall, Bosworth’s jewelry store, his house and, on the corner of Eagle St. a tavern. Across Eagle St. is a drug store, a blacksmith shop, and then nothing but timberland beyond it.
On our side of Main Street we see a two-story frame hotel facing the Common. Indeed the Common, which is a footworn grassy lot with no trees on it, runs from the doorstep of that Abell House across to the frame home of Hezekiah Barker facing it from the other side. At the end of the Common and East Main is the two year old brick home of Hezekiah Barker’s son-in-law Leverett Barker, now the Barker Historical Museum. There is no Day St., no Park St., no Church St. The open field that is the Common fills the entire square except for the small, one-room schoolhouse near the Academy front yard. About where the old Firehall is today, we see the small frame house of Joseph Plumb, then the lot where the white wooden Baptist Church will be going up near the corner of Temple St.
                            For years there had been two trails, which became streets, running up Canadaway Creek on the high ground on either side. On the west is what we call Chestnut and Seymour streets. On the east side is Temple St., starting at Lake Erie and running along the ridge to the Academy corner and continuing, slanting diagonally across the Common to Main St., where it jogs slightly to become the Cushing Road, (now Eagle St.). Central Ave. has been surveyed but is still virtually impassible to Dunkirk.37
                            That is the neighborhood in which we find our new Academy building in June 1823. Although it was up and enclosed, and apparently fit for church services on the second floor, there was still no Academy in operation. In December 1823, a special meeting for “all persons who are in any way or shape interested in the Academy and Meeting room” was called.38 There must have been a real sense of desperation that the Academy would never begin to function since it was not until November 25, 1824 that the State Legislature finally granted a Charter to the Trustees.39
                            By April 1825 arrangements had been made to let School District No.8 lease a ground floor room in place of the little schoolhouse on the Common. The lease was to run for 999 years for a yearly rent of “one pepper corn if the same shall be demanded.”40 Perhaps because of this, another subscription list was circulated, in October 1825, to finish “the Lower story of the Academy.”41 Finally, by year’s end, the State agreed to pay something toward the Academy’s expenses, a young principal/teacher was hired and, in October 1826, Austin Smith arrived to inaugurate the Fredonia Academy, with a class of 15 young men in the lower room on the Temple St. side.42 At that point, another change was called for and the School District, on 7 June 1827, purchased a lot on Temple St. on which a stone building was erected, sometimes called “the jail.”43 This move left all of the ground floor for Academy functions as it expanded.
              Outlining the later changes is quickly done. In June 1828 a large bell was purchased and put in the tower.44 On 17 February 1835 the Presbyterians voted to build a separate church on the adjoining lot, which was dedicated on 24 January 1836.45 That gave the Academy needed extra room on the second story. Early in February 1840 Charles Barker deeded an additional piece of land to the Academy which put another 66 feet on to the back of the Academy lot,46 and in 1850 the large addition to the front of the building, with the two large corner towers we see in the only extant photographs, was put on, changing forever the Academy building in which so much community effort had been invested. The Academy itself functioned only from 1826 to 1867, but the structure lasted from 1823 to 1890. After the Academy was absorbed into the Normal School, the building served as Village/Fire Hall until a new Village Hall was called for, and the massive timbers were slowly taken down. It is the massive timbers that suggest the character of those people who experienced the long, frustrating struggle to put the Academy building up and make it work, just as their character is aptly symbolized by the building itself, hopefully brought briefly to life again here, solid, strong and quietly enduring.





Notes

1. Andrew W.Young, History of Chautauqua County (1875), 475-476

2. D.R.Barker in The Fredonia Censor, 4 June 1873

3. Young, 470-471

4. Miscellaneous Records, Vol.1,p.90 (at Chautauqua County Courthouse)

5. Rev.C.Allyn Russell, A History of the Fredonia Baptist Church (1955), 30

6. Re-union and Memorial Services (1874),6-7; Miscellaneous Records,1:5

7. Re-union, 8

8. Miscellaneous Records, 5:89

9. Re-union, 8-9

10.Re-union, 10n

11.Pomfret assessment rolls for 1820 and 1821 show Abell and Mullett on Lots 24 and 33, Twp.5, and 14, Twp. 6 respectively

12.Young, 475

13.Joseph Ellicott to Paul Busti, 28 May 1808

14.Original, dated 16 March 1821, at Barker Historical Museum, Doc.#112,0

15.The full text reads: We the subscribers, having it in contemplation to build a house, which shall answer the purposes of an academy and a Presbyterian meeting house, and which shall stand on or within twenty rods of the place where the School house on the northerly side of the canadaway creek, in the village of Fredonia, now stands; do hereby, for value received, severally and respectively, & not Jointly, promise and agree to pay and deliver to Leverett Barker and Thomas G. Abell, such sum or sums of money or other thing or things as are or shall be, by us, set opposite our respective names sbscribed to this contract. The materials for the building of the said house, if any be subscribed by us, to be delivered on the place where the said house is to stand, by the first day of September next. The money or other property, by us subscribed except materials as aforesaid, to be delivered to the said Leverett Barker & Thomas G. Abell, or either of them, in the village of Fredonia, in               sixty days after the same shall be demanded; provided that such demand shall not be made before the first day of December next. The size, plan & form of the said house to be ascertained & fixed by a majority of the subscribers to this paper, who shall attend a meeting for that purpose pursuant to a notice published in the Chautauque Gazette two weeks previous to said Meeting, provided however that the said house shall not be less than thirty six feet by fifty feet. And we do hereby severally and respectively authorize & impower the said Leverett Barker & Thomas G. Abell, in their own names, to commence, prosecute & maintain suits or actions at Law against us, respectively, to compel a performance of this contract or to recover damages from a breach of it.

16.By combining the courses and.distances given in a deed by Hezekiah Barker to James Hale      (10 March 1815) one by Joseph Plumb to Stephen Savage (11 October 1820), and Stephen Savage to the the Trustees of the First Baptist Society (20 June 1823),and references in several surveys of Central Ave.:27 June 1817; 22 May 1854; and 19 June,1856; it is possible to “triangulate” the schoolhouse location fairly accurately.

17. Covenant, Hezekiah Barker to the Society for Building an Academy, 3 October 1821 (at Barker Historical Museum)

18.Trustees of Fredonia Academy To Leverett Barker (Barker Historical Museum, Doc.# R-87)

19.Franklin Burritt, “He Likes the Old Name,” The Fredonia Censor, 12 April 1899

20.”The Academy Building Sold,” The Fredonia Censor 12 March1890

21.A bushel of wheat cost 62 cents and pine boards were one cent a foot.

22.When the Village Hall was to be built, the Academy building “and the stone foundation" were to be sold (The Fredonia Censor, 5 March,1890). Paintings and photographs of the Academy building, made after the front portion was added in 1850, show the foundation and the two steps necessary to reach the floor level at the doorway put into the Temple St. side.

23.C.F.Matteson, The Fredonia Censor, 8 February 1871

24.Re-union,11

25.Liber l99,p.l58; 20 June 1823

26.Re-union,9

27.Presbyterian Church Records, 1811-l827, p.59

28.12 April 1825

29.”The Old Academy Building, The Fredonia Censor  19 March 1890; “The Old Academy,” 26 March 1890

3O.The Fredonia Censor 26 March 1890

31.Ibid

32.The Fredonia Censor 25 June 1828

33.The Fredonia Censor 26 March 1890

34.The Fredonia Censor of 8 January 1850, stated that John Jones’ draft for the building showed it to be 50 feet wide by 78 feet long. The Sanborn Insurance Co. map of 1886 agrees with that measurement.

35.Indenture between Fredonia Academy and Trustees of School District No.8; 12 April 1825 (Barker Historical Museum, Doc. #R-90)

36.The details here are based on an account of Fredonia in 1821 by Levi Risley (The Fredonia Censor 28 January1880), supplemented by the relevant property deeds recorded at the County Courthouse.

37.See various Town of Pomfret and Village of Fredonia road surveys.

38.The Fredonia Censor 31 December 1823

39.Laws of New York, 1825, Ch.226

40.Indenture 12 April 1825

4l.Subscription Paper; 24 October 1825 (at Barker Historical Museum, Doc.#294)

42.Proceedings of the Fredonia Academy Reunion (1867),13

43.Joseph Plumb sold a two-acre parcel to Stephen Savage on 11 October 1820 (Llber 3,p.44l). The deed by which Savage later sold the schoolhouse lot, a small portion of the original two acres, to School District No.8 is in Liber 58, p.315.

44.The Fredonia Censor 25 June 1828

45.Re-union,10

46.Liber 103,p.66; 8 February 1840. Charles Barker to the Fredonia Academy

47.The Fredonia Censor, 8 January 1850,2:2; 23 April 1850,2:2.